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What to photograph on a landscaping job: from bare site to finished yard
A landscaping project takes weeks and changes shape as it goes. By the end, the client has forgotten how the yard looked on day one, and nobody remembers the drainage problem you solved or the overgrown bed you cleared.
Photos hold the starting point still. Take a full set before the first shovel, a small set at each stage, and a matching set at the end, and the finished yard has a clear before, a visible process and a report the client can share.
Before you start
- Photograph the whole site before you move anything, in the same light you expect to use for the finish.
- Mark your standing spots with a landmark: a window, a downspout, a tree, a corner of the patio.
- Photograph anything that could cause a later dispute: drainage, existing damage, utility lines marked by the locate service, neighbors' fences.
- Check the weather. A dry, bright day gives the cleanest before.
The shot list
12 photos, in the order to take them. For each one: what to shoot, how to frame it, and why it is worth the few seconds.
The site before work starts
- The whole yard from two or three fixed spots
How: Front, back and each side, from landmarks you can find again.
Why: These are the anchors for every after shot.
- Existing beds, borders and plants
How: One wide shot per bed, then close-ups of anything you will keep or protect.
Why: It records what is staying and what is going.
- Drainage and standing water
How: Photograph low spots, downspout outlets and pooling after rain.
Why: Drainage is the most common thing a client later says "was fine".
- Existing damage and hardscape condition
How: Cracked walks, tilted pavers, broken irrigation, damaged fences.
Why: It protects you from claims for damage you did not cause.
- Trees, roots and overhead lines
How: Wide, then close up of any roots or limbs that affect the plan.
Why: It supports your scope and any extra work.
During the build
- Each stage, from the same spots
How: Demolition, grading, base, hardscape, planting, mulch. One wide shot per stage.
Why: It shows the process and the labor, which clients rarely see.
- Hidden work before it is covered
How: Drain lines, edging, base material, irrigation, fabric.
Why: It is proof of work that will never be visible again.
- Change orders and surprises
How: Rock, roots, old pipes, utilities, soft ground.
Why: It supports any change in price or scope.
The finished yard
- The same spots as the before, after cleanup
How: Same landmark, same height, tools and materials out of frame.
Why: It is the pair the client will share.
- Planting beds, close up
How: Low angle so the plants and the mulch edge show.
Why: It shows quality of finish, which wide shots hide.
- Hardscape: walks, patios, walls, steps
How: Along the line of the surface, then a straight-on view.
Why: Straight lines and level surfaces are what clients judge.
- Lighting, water features and details
How: At the time of day they will be used, if possible.
Why: They are the details that justify the price.
Get the angle and the light right
- Landmarks beat measurements. A window, a gutter end or a tree is easier to match than a spot on the ground.
- Shoot in even light. Harsh midday sun and deep shadows hide plants and make paving look uneven.
- Include a wide shot and a close shot of every bed, so scale and detail both show.
- Remove tools, hoses, wheelbarrows and pallets from the after shots.
Mistakes that make the result look smaller
- Photographing only the finished yard.
- Shooting the after from a different spot than the before.
- Forgetting to photograph the work that gets buried, such as drainage and base layers.
- Taking photos too late in the day, when long shadows hide the plants.
When it is not a standard job
A phased project
Photograph each phase from the same spots and keep them in order. A report with the first and latest photo of each area shows the whole project.
Client changes the plan
Photograph the area at the time of the change, with a note on what was agreed. It makes the change order easy to explain.
Maintenance contracts after the install
Use the finished photos as the baseline for the next season. A before and after of the same bed a year later shows the plants growing in.
Printable checklist: landscaping
Tick each one before and after.
- The whole yard from two or three fixed spots
- Existing beds, borders and plants
- Drainage and standing water
- Existing damage and hardscape condition
- Trees, roots and overhead lines
- Each stage, from the same spots
- Hidden work before it is covered
- Change orders and surprises
- The same spots as the before, after cleanup
- Planting beds, close up
- Hardscape: walks, patios, walls, steps
- Lighting, water features and details
photoluego.com/guides/landscaping-photo-checklist
From photos to proof
A folder of photos is not a report. Photo Luego for landscapers lines up each before and after shot with a ghost of the first photo, pairs them for you, and turns the best pairs into a report with your logo, your review links and a pay button. It works in your phone's browser, and it has an always-free plan. New to it? Start with Getting started, then see how to send a report.
Questions
How many photos do I need for a landscaping project?
A few dozen is normal: a full set of the site before, one wide shot per stage, close-ups of hidden work, and the matching finish. You only send your best pairs.
Should I photograph utility marks?
Yes, they are good to have on record, along with the date. Only your locate service decides what is underground, so follow their marks and your local rules.
How do I show a slow change like plants growing in?
Photograph the same bed from the same spot at the end of the job, at the next visit, and a season later, and put the first and last together.
General advice, not legal advice. Rules about photographing people and property vary by place, so check yours.