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What to photograph on a tree trimming job: canopy, hazards and the site
Good pruning is meant to look natural, which makes the work hard to see once the debris is gone. The customer sees a tree that looks fine, not the dead limbs, the crossing branches and the clearance you took off.
Photos from the ground, taken from the same spots before and after, show the change in the canopy, support your recommendations about hazards, and record the state of the yard so a damage claim is easy to answer.
Before you start
- Take photos from the ground. Never photograph from a climbing line, a lift or a rope while you are working, and keep your attention on the work.
- Step back far enough to see the whole tree, and use a landmark to mark your spot.
- Photograph the site before the trucks and chipper come in: lawn, beds, fences, irrigation, hardscape.
- Photograph any hazard you want to recommend work on, with the customer present if you can.
The shot list
11 photos, in the order to take them. For each one: what to shoot, how to frame it, and why it is worth the few seconds.
The tree and the hazards
- The whole tree from two sides, from a fixed spot
How: Far enough back to see the full canopy, from a landmark you can return to.
Why: The pair for the canopy is built from these.
- Deadwood, cracks, decay and included bark
How: Close up with a zoom from the ground, and a wide shot to show where it sits.
Why: It supports a hazard recommendation, with the date on it.
- Clearance over roofs, wires and driveways
How: Looking up from the ground, along the line of the branch.
Why: It shows the problem the trimming is solving.
- Signs of disease, pests or storm damage
How: Close up of the trunk, fungus, oozing, holes and broken limbs.
Why: It supports your diagnosis, and a recommendation to bring in an arborist if needed.
The site
- The lawn, beds and walks where you will work
How: Wide, from a spot at the edge of the work area.
Why: It records the state of the yard before the trucks arrive.
- Fences, sheds, play sets and irrigation
How: One wide shot, then close-ups of any existing damage.
Why: It protects you from claims for damage you did not cause.
- Access: gates, driveways and the route for the chipper
How: Wide, along the route.
Why: It records the surfaces the equipment will cross.
After the work
- The same views of the tree, from the same spots
How: After the debris is cleared, in the same light if you can.
Why: The pair shows how much you removed and how natural it looks.
- The cleared clearance
How: Looking up along the same line as before.
Why: It proves the roof or the wires are clear.
- The yard after cleanup
How: Raked, blown and swept, from the same wide spot.
Why: It shows you left the property as you found it.
- Any stumps and what you left
How: Close up of the cut and the area.
Why: It records what was agreed.
Get the angle and the light right
- A backlit canopy turns into a silhouette. Move so the sun is behind you.
- Shoot a little below the canopy line and look up, so the structure of the branches shows.
- Use landmarks such as a fence, a window or a pole, because a tree has no fixed point of its own.
- Keep ropes, saws and chippers out of the after shot.
Mistakes that make the result look smaller
- Photographing from a spot you cannot return to.
- Skipping the site, so a rut in the lawn becomes your problem.
- Missing the hazards you recommended work on.
- Shooting into the sun, so the canopy cannot be seen.
When it is not a standard job
A removal
Photograph the tree, the drop zone, any structures nearby and the plan for the debris. After, photograph the stump, the ground and the cleanup. Safety and local rules come first.
Storm damage
Photograph the damage before you cut, from the ground and from several angles. It supports the work, and the customer may need it for an insurance claim.
A recommendation the customer declines
Photograph the hazard, note your recommendation, and keep it with the job. It shows you raised it, and what you advised.
Printable checklist: tree trimming
Tick each one before and after.
- The whole tree from two sides, from a fixed spot
- Deadwood, cracks, decay and included bark
- Clearance over roofs, wires and driveways
- Signs of disease, pests or storm damage
- The lawn, beds and walks where you will work
- Fences, sheds, play sets and irrigation
- Access: gates, driveways and the route for the chipper
- The same views of the tree, from the same spots
- The cleared clearance
- The yard after cleanup
- Any stumps and what you left
photoluego.com/guides/tree-trimming-photo-checklist
From photos to proof
A folder of photos is not a report. Photo Luego for tree trimmers lines up each before and after shot with a ghost of the first photo, pairs them for you, and turns the best pairs into a report with your logo, your review links and a pay button. It works in your phone's browser, and it has an always-free plan. New to it? Start with Getting started, then see how to send a report.
Questions
How do I show how much I trimmed?
Photograph the whole tree from the same spot, from the same landmark, before and after. A second pair from another side makes the change clear from every direction.
Can photos support a hazard recommendation?
Yes. A dated photo of a cracked limb, decayed trunk or branch over a roof helps the customer understand the recommendation. It does not replace an arborist's assessment.
What should I record about the yard?
The lawn, beds, fences, irrigation and hardscape, and any existing damage, before the equipment comes in. It is the record that matters most if a claim comes up later.
General advice, not legal advice. Rules about photographing people and property vary by place, so check yours.