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What to photograph on a pressure washing job: before, during and dry
Pressure washing is the most satisfying before and after in any trade, and the one most often photographed badly. A wet surface looks dark, a different angle hides the change, and a close-up of one clean stripe tells the customer nothing about the rest of the driveway.
Shoot a fixed wide shot of each surface, a few close-ups of the worst stains, and the dry result from the same spot. That is the whole job, and it takes a couple of minutes.
Before you start
- Walk the property first and decide which surfaces you are doing, so every one gets a before.
- Pick a standing spot for each surface, such as a corner of the house or a post, and use it for the after.
- Photograph existing damage before you start: cracks, spalling, loose boards, peeling paint.
- Move cars, furniture and hoses out of the frame for the before and the after.
The shot list
10 photos, in the order to take them. For each one: what to shoot, how to frame it, and why it is worth the few seconds.
Before you start
- Each surface from one fixed spot
How: Driveway, walks, patio, deck, fence, siding, roof. Wide, with the whole surface in the frame.
Why: The standing spot is what makes the pair line up.
- The worst stains close up
How: Oil, rust, algae, mildew, tire marks. A hand or a coin in frame gives scale.
Why: It proves what the surface looked like at its worst.
- Existing damage
How: Cracked concrete, spalling, loose or rotted boards, chipped paint, etched glass.
Why: It protects you if the surface looks worse after cleaning, which is common.
- Things you will protect or avoid
How: Plants, painted trim, electrical, windows, soft wood.
Why: It records the care you took.
The stripe test and the process
- One clean stripe beside the dirty surface
How: Straight on, with the clean strip running toward the camera.
Why: It sells the job on the spot and is the photo customers share.
- Mid-job on large surfaces
How: Half washed, half not, from the fixed spot.
Why: It shows how much dirt came off.
The dry result
- The same surfaces from the same spots, once dry
How: Same height, same direction, same time of day if you can.
Why: Wet concrete and wood look darker, which makes the result look smaller.
- The same stains, close up
How: The exact spots from the before, with the same scale object.
Why: Close-ups prove the stains came out, or show what could not.
- Sealed or stained surfaces, once treated
How: If you seal, photograph it after it has cured and has its final color.
Why: It shows the finished product, not the wet look.
- Cleanup
How: Edges, drains, plants and the lawn after you are done.
Why: It shows you left the property as you found it.
Get the angle and the light right
- Shoot the after when the surface is dry. If you cannot wait, say so in the caption and add a dry photo later.
- Low sun from behind you shows texture and stains. Straight-down flash flattens them.
- Match the time of day if you can. Morning and afternoon light change the color.
- Take a wide and a close shot for each surface. The wide shows scale, the close shows detail.
Mistakes that make the result look smaller
- Photographing the after while the surface is wet.
- Shooting from a different angle, which makes the change look smaller.
- Leaving hoses, buckets and equipment in the after shot.
- Skipping existing damage, then being asked why a crack appeared.
When it is not a standard job
Multiple surfaces on one property
Label each one in a short caption, such as "Driveway", "Back patio", "North fence", so the report reads like an invoice with pictures.
A stain that does not come out
Photograph it before and after, and add a note on what you tried. A rust or oil stain that has soaked in is honest to report, and the photos show you did the work.
Soft washing roofs and siding
Photograph the same face of the house from the ground, from one spot, and keep the framing the same. Never photograph from a roof or ladder if it is unsafe.
Printable checklist: pressure washing
Tick each one before and after.
- Each surface from one fixed spot
- The worst stains close up
- Existing damage
- Things you will protect or avoid
- One clean stripe beside the dirty surface
- Mid-job on large surfaces
- The same surfaces from the same spots, once dry
- The same stains, close up
- Sealed or stained surfaces, once treated
- Cleanup
photoluego.com/guides/pressure-washing-photo-checklist
From photos to proof
A folder of photos is not a report. Photo Luego for pressure washers lines up each before and after shot with a ghost of the first photo, pairs them for you, and turns the best pairs into a report with your logo, your review links and a pay button. It works in your phone's browser, and it has an always-free plan. New to it? Start with Getting started, then see how to send a report.
Questions
Why photograph the dry surface?
Wet concrete, brick and wood look darker and hide the result. A dry photo matches how the customer will see it for the next year.
How do I show a clean strip without it looking staged?
Wash a clear strip first, photograph it straight on, then wash the rest. Customers like it, and it is the photo they send to neighbors.
What damage should I record?
Cracks, spalling, loose boards, peeling paint, etched glass and loose mortar. Photograph it close up and from a step back before you start.
General advice, not legal advice. Rules about photographing people and property vary by place, so check yours.